Soft Scrambled Eggs with Herbs

Ingredients

• 4 largeeggs
• 1 tbspheavy cream or whole milk
• 2 tbspunsalted butter
• 1 tbspfresh chives, finely sliced
• 1 tspfresh tarragon or dill, finely chopped
• to finishflaky salt and black pepper
• to servethick sourdough toast

Method

1. 01

   Crack the eggs into a small bowl. Add the cream and a pinch of fine salt. Whisk until just combined — no need to froth. Over-whisking makes the curds toughen later.

2. 02

   Melt the butter in a small nonstick pan over the lowest heat possible. Let it foam quietly without browning. The pan should never sizzle when the eggs hit it.

3. 03

   Pour the eggs in. Don't stir.

4. 04

   Wait. After thirty seconds, drag a soft silicone spatula slowly across the bottom of the pan, lifting curds toward the center.

5. 05

   Pause. Wait again. Drag again — slowly, almost lazily — every twenty or thirty seconds. The pulse of dragging-then-resting builds large, glossy curds; constant stirring shatters them.

6. 06

   Pull the pan off the heat while the eggs are still glossy and a touch wetter than you think they should be. They keep cooking for thirty seconds in their own heat.